Qi Shan, part of the Da Bie mountain range, is the top terroir for Gua Pian. Like many historical tea villages, Qi Shan is both the collective name for dozens of natural villages and the name of the natural village with the best of the best Gua Pian. According to legend, theres a bat cave near the peak of Qi Shan, where the Divine gifted the first tea tree in the area.

Gua Pian is umami, buttery, and creamy with a soft sugary undertone. This complex tea offers dynamic possibilities with varied brewing methods. When shaken vigorously, the tea will foam up and yield a super creamy texture. The comprehensive profile of umami, grassy, floral, and gentle sweetness reminds us of a combination of matcha and gyokuro.

Gua Pian woks are wood-fired and usually in a standup position with two or three line up in a row. Without a dial to control the temperature, one person has to be assigned to operate the log fire, controlling the temperature completely by skillfully positioning the logs and knowing when to add or take out a few. The two or three woks are usually operating at different temperatures, with the first one the hottest. Once the leaves are thoroughly cooked (enzymes killed), they are transferred to the next wok(s) to take shape. The tea makers use a small broom or swatter-looking tool to move the leaves, then gently beat it continuously to make sure the leaves are heated evenly and take on the signature tightening shape, making about half an ounce of tea at a time. The leaves then are transferred to a slightly warped bamboo tray and moved nimbly over dim charcoal ash to slowly bake dry. After the teas are baked dry comes the most tedious step of all top-shelf Chinese teas, where one by one, the older leaves and stems are picked out from the batch. Then a unique action of Gua Pian is performed, La Da Huo, or pulling the big fire.

Twenty pounds at a time, the semi-dried leaves are put on a giant bamboo tray with one man on each side of it, and walk the tea over a big sizzling pit of charcoal fire to flash roast the teas. For each batch of tea, this step is repeated for about an hour. It is usually done on a three-person rotation as the locals say no man can handle more than five rounds of the roasting a day. The tea leaves lose about 30% more moisture after this step, leaving us with only around fourteen pounds of the final tea. Indigenous varietals of Gua Pian are affectionately referred to as Ben Cha (stupid tea) among locals. They bud much later than clone varietals, to the point that the different varietal groups practically have two separate picking seasons. The most common clone varietal used for Gua Pian is Wu Niu Zao, and this is the varietal most commonly found on the market. Though both are produced in the true origin of Gua Pian, tea made from the heirloom Ben Cha varietals offers the most authentic taste of this historically famous tea.

Vintages:

Qi Shan, Lu An – Traditionally Handmade Early Spring 2023:Ultraumamiandsilkywithnotesof gai lan.

Qi Shan, Lu An – 100% Handmade Early Spring 2022:Ultimately balanced with umami, nuttiness, and a buttery texture

Qi Shan, Lu An – Early Spring 2022: Grassy, nutty, umami, and floral

Qi Shan, Lu An – 100% Handmade Mid Spring 2021:Roasted greens, floral tannins, and focused aroma

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